As you lot should know by now, I sold all of the basiks and used the LVV at home on an LP12 for a while in between Ittoks. The LVV is fine with many medium compliance cartridges and in fact the lightweight jelco shell it came with breaks up resonances in the structure very well. Just sticking a more rigid shell on.can. make it worse in this particular application, as I found to my cost. Also, the thin rubber ring around the headshell plug is there for a genuine reason and shouldn't be discarded, not on this arm at any rate.
Trying to use a cartridge with lower compliance and higher cost will not be an economic thing I feel with this arm. Just stick to AT's, Stanton 681EEE, Shures with damper fitted and high compliance Ortofons (2M red/Blue, 520-540 and OM20 - OM40 for example and probably mid priced Nagaoka's too ). By now, many LVV's will be shagged and possibly too frail for AO Johnnie to properly service - may be worth asking him. LVX - A potentially good medium mass tonearm this one, but the headshell socket is a definite weak point as the clamping bolt was always overtightened by Linnie dealers trained to do such things and the socket works loose with disastrous sonic results.
I found that using loc-tite studlock in the gap around the socket and tube (the green stuff used to lock tape head screws) sorts it out once the screws are re-tightened carefully. The squidgy counterweight decoupling will have gone off by now and I don't think it's fixable (I'd love to be shown wrong here though). If the counterweight spins freely on the end stub, you've had it. Same goes for the Basik Plus (not LVX Plus as some have called it). This arm in fine fettle should be about as good as the straight-tubed Jelco and with a similar sound I think. Lively, lean and 'fresh' in balance, it's a good all-rounder for budget to mid price mm type cartridges and possibly some of the more tolerant mc types too. The counterweight thing is an issue too.
All of the above three tonearms have the bias setting a tad too much (witnessed by many lop-sided worn K9 styli I examined) and the lightweight construction could cause bearing damage after years of over-tightening pillar bolts etc. I'd personally give them a miss these days unless you're able to check them first. Free-spinning counterweights are a definite no-no for best sonics also and I don't think Linn support these jelco made arms now, since the 'orrible grainy sounding Akito thingy came out in mk1 form well over twenty years ago now! My advice is to look elsewhere to the evergreen Rega arms. The R200 can now have its bias restored by Johnnie at Audio Origami and its a FAR better tonearm than the cheap-as-chips LVV, if limited in adjustability; the RB series is readily supported by Rega, can be botched to high heaven with suspect aftermarket add-ons (and Rega will repair badly botched ones for a fee) and can be made to sound great if you know what you're doing, although turntable synergy is essential with these. Does this lecture help?
Not sure if Pro-Ject have ever released one of their better arms to maket separately or how much it would cost. I guess that Bernie has asked about Linn arms because they have similar enough geometry to the stock issue to be a direct replacement, given some elementary arm tube work. Bernie, if you can find a Basik Plus in good condition for about £75, I don't think you'd be disappointed using a MM up to Ortofon 2M Blue / Nagaoka MP150 standards. Depending on your priorities, the S-shaped earlier variant would better suit a modified GL75 if the aesthetics are kept similar to the original.
SQ and upgrade paths are more easily marked if you take the Rega route, but this will involve significant surgery to your Lenco. Johnny Dodgem. Spinners: Pye G63 & Garrard AT6 changer: Two full custom Lencos: Kenwood KD-650: 1210 Jelco 750D, Origami wire, inox armplate, Longdog psu, fettled bearing, Vantage feet, stacked Achromats and tuned Deccas C4E & Maroon ffss! Tuners: Rogers T100: Sansui TU-7700: OTA Leak Troughline 3 Transport/Streamer: Oppo 93: Bluesound Node 2 Convertors: Rega DAC: Bushmaster + Longdog psu Pre-amps: Conrad Johnson EV1: rolled Croft Micro 25: Decware ZStage Power Amps: Decware Zen Taboo, Hazen modified: tweaked Primaluna ProLogue 4 Gold Lion KT-77 Speakers: The Edingdale: Meadowlark Hot Rod Shearwater & BK XXLS400 subs Cables: TQ Black, Atratus, MG2000HD. Johnny Dodgem. Spinners: Pye G63 & Garrard AT6 changer: Two full custom Lencos: Kenwood KD-650: 1210 Jelco 750D, Origami wire, inox armplate, Longdog psu, fettled bearing, Vantage feet, stacked Achromats and tuned Deccas C4E & Maroon ffss!
Tuners: Rogers T100: Sansui TU-7700: OTA Leak Troughline 3 Transport/Streamer: Oppo 93: Bluesound Node 2 Convertors: Rega DAC: Bushmaster + Longdog psu Pre-amps: Conrad Johnson EV1: rolled Croft Micro 25: Decware ZStage Power Amps: Decware Zen Taboo, Hazen modified: tweaked Primaluna ProLogue 4 Gold Lion KT-77 Speakers: The Edingdale: Meadowlark Hot Rod Shearwater & BK XXLS400 subs Cables: TQ Black, Atratus, MG2000HD. OK, so assuming that you don't have enough space (or the desire) to mount an arm on your current plinth, leaving the top-plate unaltered, and that you wish to mount an arm in the existing cut-out of the original top-plate, then you can choose from arms with - pivot to spindle distance: 211 mm effective length: 229 mm and if you screw your cartridge down using 24 degrees offset and 18mm overhang, you can align to Baerwald. The obvious choice is from the Linn range, the exact model dependent upon how far from the shore you ultimately wish to swim. If you want to get mystic and esoteric, you could search for an Alphason or a Syrinx, and afterwards write a book about your experiences. I've modified three GL75s, and used a Basik Plus when retaining the original top-plate. I never felt bullied or under pressure to change the Linn arm, until I had an extra-marital affair with rosewood plinths and bespoke top plates and was ultimately divorced from much of the Lenco apart from the motor and platter. Albeit, I did flirt with the LVV because a curvy one does it for me in places that a straight one can't reach.
Trend-trades-vs-mean-reversion-trades.pdf - Trend Trades vs Mean Reversion Trades Page 1 of 2. Europa tabellenbuch.
Johnny Dodgem. Spinners: Pye G63 & Garrard AT6 changer: Two full custom Lencos: Kenwood KD-650: 1210 Jelco 750D, Origami wire, inox armplate, Longdog psu, fettled bearing, Vantage feet, stacked Achromats and tuned Deccas C4E & Maroon ffss! Tuners: Rogers T100: Sansui TU-7700: OTA Leak Troughline 3 Transport/Streamer: Oppo 93: Bluesound Node 2 Convertors: Rega DAC: Bushmaster + Longdog psu Pre-amps: Conrad Johnson EV1: rolled Croft Micro 25: Decware ZStage Power Amps: Decware Zen Taboo, Hazen modified: tweaked Primaluna ProLogue 4 Gold Lion KT-77 Speakers: The Edingdale: Meadowlark Hot Rod Shearwater & BK XXLS400 subs Cables: TQ Black, Atratus, MG2000HD.
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. Thank you for buying the Linn BASIK turntable. We are sure it will provide you with musical pleasure for many years to come. Linn Products have always stated that the turntable is the most important part of a high fidelity system. If you do not get a good signal from the record then the potential of the rest of your system will never be realised as neither the amplifier nor the speakers can improve the quality of the signal they receive.
Linn Basik Lv V Tone Arm
If your deck is fitted with a Linn AKITO tonearm, set the Tracking Weight as follows:- NOTE – the cartridge should be fitted to the arm prior to this procedure – remove the arm from the turntable when fitting the cartridge to the arm to prevent damaging the tonearm bearing during fitting. Turn the counterweight to the position which balances the arm, i.e: where the stylus is floating at about record height. Clip the arm back into its rest. Turn the tracking dial while holding the counterweight until '0' is aligned with the line on top of the arm. Check the arm is still balanced. Ensure the surface on which the turntable is to be used is level. For best results we recommend the following:- FLOOR MOUNTING Place deck on a small, light, rigid table e.g.
Small coffee table. Ensure the table is sitting firmly on the floor and not rocking. OPERATION The power switch is on the underside of the plinth at the front left-hand side. A label indicates direction for ON and OFF. This label is removable.
Lift and lower the lid carefully as it is coupled to the suspended plinth. If dropped or roughly handled it may cause the arm to jump. SPEED SELECTION To change the speed of the BASIK turntable, switch off, remove the mat and outer platter and move the belt to the other level on the stepped pulley.
The larger diameter will give 45rpm, the smaller will give 33rpm. The BASIK is designed for a long operational life. To preserve the appearance and maintain the performance of your dock, you should note the following points: OUTER PLATTER Clean with a soft, dry cloth. DO NOT use any abrasive cleaner as this will remove the protective lacquer and cause corrosion. STYLUS CLEANING It is important that the stylus is kept scrupulously clean.
We have found that dry vibrating pad cleaners work well. Alternatively, Linn dealers can supply cleaning paper which is easy to use and gives excellent results. CLEAN CONTACTS Electrical contacts in a hi-fi system must be kept mechanically sound and clean. Keep a copy of the sales receipt, as this will establish the purchase date of the turntable. Refer all enquiries to authorised dealers only. For information on your nearest dealer, contact the Linn factory in the UK or an overseas distributor.
A horrible tragedy in my audio journey. It was an accident on my part (won't bore you guys with the story unless you want it) and now my removable Linn Basik LVX headshell is damaged. I tried looking for a replacement headshell on the internet but it's seems near impossible.
Does anybody know if I could purchase a compatible headshell? If so, which are the ones to look? Also, does anybody know any sources I could try? It would be best to get an original Linn headshell but if getting one is impossible, I will gladly settle for an alternative. It's gonna be CDs till I resolve this.
I bypassed that removable thing and bought the 'improved' fixed version as soon as it came out. You should seek out one of those, form fit and function replacement. And not a bad performer. You do sometimes see, on eBay, arms 'for parts' that are otherwise trashed. You could be in for a wait. It's worth seeking out and contacting some original dealers too.
These things get put in drawers and forgotten. One dealer cleared out a box of stuff like trashed MCs and parts to great acclaim on eBay a couple years ago. He had like a bag of 10 headshells. Although it's not quite the same league, the LVV is no bad arm on a Sondek either. It's a tweaked Japan built arm from Lustre, who OEM'd most of the arms on Japan turntables of quality through to the end of manufacture. Again, just a drop in and plug up replacement for your LVX.
Linn Basik Turntable
Click to expand.I didn't have the greatest luck with my Basik LV-X arm, either. Oddly enough, I did do a highly unusual rebuild on a Basik LV-V (S shape tonearm) - while it's vertical bearings and armtube were intact, the horizontal (pillar) bearing races were damaged beyond any sort of repair (dimpled and non-replaceable).
Linn Basik Review
I had a Linn Akito MK1 with a damaged armtube, so what I did was use the Akito's pillar housing and replaceable bearings and installed the LV-V arm into that. Interestingly enough, it worked great and I ended up giving it to a friend for what it cost me to fix it (bearings and rewire plus what it cost me to get it, which wasn't much at all).
As a note, the Basik LV-V and Basik Plus have non-hardened bearing races, so if mishandled, the ball bearings could 'dimple' the races, causing 'flat spots' to occur (I'm assuming the LV-X is the same, since I never took one apart). At least with the Akito (all versions) those bearings are replaceable, both horizontal and vertical.As for the OP question, I'm researching it further. I know some inexpensive Japanese turntables (Onkyo?, iirc) may have used the same 6-pin connection type headshell, albeit a cheaper plastic type, and perhaps some other mid-fi arms as well. Just checked keywords 'turntable headshell types' and under photos, it shows the ADC type headshell as being a match. So by looking for one of those, there's a good chance it'll fit the Linn arm as a more suitable replacement. According to the photo, it appears that LP Gear online may have availability on them?
Needle Doctor should have it as well, currently priced at $65 (just checked their site). Others, such as Garage-A-Records may have availability as well, so shop and compare. LP Gear appears to have it for less as well, Garage-A appears to be sold out though. Keywords: 'ADC headshell'. Click to expand.I have to agree there (in regards to the Linn vs Pro-Ject arm). A cartridge that would normally be a mismatch or fair/poor tracker in the inexpensive Linn arm ended up sounding great in the Pro-Ject tonearm that I had installed on one of my 'poor man's Linn' builds. Not to say there aren't matches for the Linn arm, but it's just that the choices are more limited.
With the Linn arm, I had reasonably good results with the better Audio Technica cartridges. Microsoft. Cartridges such as the Grado definitely won't work well with it, and the same is probably true for the Ortofon Super OM, although I never tried the latter on the LV-X. I have to agree there (in regards to the Linn vs Pro-Ject arm). A cartridge that would normally be a mismatch or fair/poor tracker in the inexpensive Linn arm ended up sounding great in the Pro-Ject tonearm that I had installed on one of my 'poor man's Linn' builds. Not to say there aren't matches for the Linn arm, but it's just that the choices are more limited. With the Linn arm, I had reasonably good results with the better Audio Technica cartridges.
Cartridges such as the Grado definitely won't work well with it, and the same is probably true for the Ortofon Super OM, although I never tried the latter on the LV-X. Click to expand.I believe the cartridge mounting dimensions are the same - it's just that the Linn headshell appears more substantial than the ADC (or comparable) offering. If one were to compare the two of them side by side, there's a good chance that the mounting locations are the same (or so close) as to allow for proper cartridge alignment (I compared photos of the Linn headshell and the ADC). The photo angle is what makes the ADC appear shorter, but from what I see, I have to believe the mounting locations are the same.
I believe the cartridge mounting dimensions are the same - it's just that the Linn headshell appears more substantial than the ADC (or comparable) offering. If one were to compare the two of them side by side, there's a good chance that the mounting locations are the same (or so close) as to allow for proper cartridge alignment (I compared photos of the Linn headshell and the ADC). The photo angle is what makes the ADC appear shorter, but from what I see, I have to believe the mounting locations are the same.
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